Saturday, March 3, 2012

Two Vladimirs -- an Ancient Prince and a Modern Emperor

How did Russia become Orthodox? That's a tale with a few roulettian twists of fate involving food and women.  Back in the grey mists of the tenth century, there lived the raucous Prince Vladimir. He built pagan temples, had five wives and hundreds of concubines, warred across vast territories, and for relaxation from the stress of battle, hunted and feasted. One day, Vladimir decided that his subjects should be united under a powerful religion -- but which one? He did some investigation. As a gourmand, Vladimir found the dietary restrictions of Islam and Judaism unpleasant. Catholicism was more to his taste, but what impressed him most was the dazzling richness of Byzantine worship. His ambassadors, returning from Constantinople, spoke in glowing terms of the glory of the Cathedral of Hagia Sophia, saying "we knew not whether we were in heaven on earth."  


If that wasn't enough, there was a woman involved.  The lovely Anna, sister of the Byzantine emperors Basil II and Constantine, agreed to marry Vladimir on the condition that he convert to Orthodoxy.  This was an offer not to be refused. Vladimir was baptized in 988 -- the year that is considered the official adoption of Christianity in Russia -- and married Anna in 989. Soon after, Vladimir demanded that his subjects adopt this new religion or be considered enemies of the kingdom. And thus, Orthodox Christianity came to Russia.



In Petersburg, the astounding Vladimirskaya Church with its five onion-shaped domes was built in honor of Prince Vladimir (he's since become a saint) and was consecrated on the 800th anniversary of his adoption of Christianity. This church has had its own ups and downs -- it was shut down in 1932 by the Bolsheviks and turned into an underwear factory. Happily, since then it has been beautifully restored and was reconsecrated in 1990.


Meanwhile, it was in the shadow of this church that protestors gathered on 26 Feburary to protest against a different Vladimir -- Putin.  In the lightly falling snow and bearable, only slightly sub-zero temperatures, some 5,000 people marched in a demonstration (the last one in Petersburg before the elections on 4 March), ending in front of Vladimirskaya Church on the square of the same name. They demanded fair and transparent elections, and called for honesty, dignity, a better life, freedom, and justice: This is our land, we aren't leaving, Russia without Putin. 


The demonstration started out not far from the Moskovskii Train Station, with scads of helmeted Special Forces in front and protestors behind the banner that reads "For Fair Elections."


As the procession crosses Nevskii Prospect, the city's main boulevard, regular police stand blocking off the entrance to Nevskii.  

Some of the innocent bystanders aren't quite sure what to make of the demonstrating rabble marching down the city streets.

 
"As the government is, so are the days and the souls"

"Basta! I don't want to crawl another twelve years on my knees! It's time to change the horse and the driver!"


The large crowd consisting of people of all ages assembles on Vladimirskaya Square in front of the church.


"Down with the power of capital! Give power to the majority!"
There are a lot of red flags fluttering, and as far as opposition to Putin goes, the Communists have a very slight edge over the other contenders but are still more than 40% behind Putin in the polls.


Putin as Napoleon: "Are you out of your mind, Emperor?"


A sign that needs no translation

"Putin, Get Lost. A Great Russia is Russia without Chekists [KGB]"


Despite wishful thinking on the part of some demonstrators, it seems unlikely that Putin will be screaming in despair after the results of the elections are made known. More plausibly, he'll be chortling over the prospect of his next imperial term -- and this time around, it will be for six years, not four.

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